San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Written By Lisa Schramek

For a small town Alaskan, SMA (pop. 175,000) feels like a big city yet it is fairly walkable within its 9 square mile area. The climate in the high desert is pleasant in the winter with sunny days and cool nights. The city is a UNESCO world heritage site and has a steady flow of international and Mexican tourists as well as a fairly large expat population (mostly from North America and Britain). English is common but not universal so I was able to practice and grow my limited Spanish vocabulary.

One of my personal missions on this trip was to practice navigating between destinations away from our familiar neighborhood. We trekked across town most days- spending at least 2 hours walking to run errands and we usually ate breakfast or lunch out and took a break indoors in the mid afternoon. Occasionally I caught a taxi when my destination was tricky to find. The streets are a mix of wider roads, smaller cobblestone streets, and narrow alleys. Some areas are pedestrian only so walking is a great way to discover neat areas and public art. It is also sometimes faster as traffic can back up to a crawl.

Statue of Archangel Michael on Canel is an excellent landmark and the street is a key artery to cross town.

Large winding blocks of connected cement or stone buildings conform to the rolling topography. Caul paint is required in some areas and common everywhere in salmon, yellow, pink, and orange, giving most neighborhoods a glow because of the paints dusty finish. Each neighborhood (Colonia) has a different feel. Those closest to Jardin Allende and Parroquia must conform to more rigorous historic standards. Beyond the historic district murals are common and it is worth investigating some of the back streets. In some neighborhood trees grow through the narrow sidewalks and cobblestone streets.

This neighborhood mural by Mané Reyes is one excellent example of the fabulous street art in SMA.

The parks and landscaped pockets of green are combined with open areas designed for socializing outdoors. We often went to the largest to play and relax: Parque Benito Juárez. These shady gathering places are perfect for a rest midday and make excellent gathering areas in the cool evenings. Street carts selling corn, fruit, tamales, or tacos are in established locations at predictable times. Some neighborhoods appear to be all stone and cement from the street, however some have gardens hidden in interior courtyards. Observers walking by typically see many closed doors yet on rare occasion a door might be open to reveal a shop, a green courtyard, or a home.

The central pavilion in Parque Allende with a view of the Parroquia in the background

Typical neighborhood away from the central historic district with narrow alleyways, small home shops, and a little art.

Toward the edge of town a former textile mill, La Aurora, has been converted into art galleries and is an enjoyable excursion. The little cafe out by the duck pond, Geek & Coffee, came highly recommended by locals as a good meeting location to meet new people and visit with friends.

Here are a few links of my favorite spots and more information:

Lisa Schramek
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